Still McMurdo......

     Well, Saturday was a long day of getting dressed in our ECW gear, dragging our carry on bags up the hill, waiting, flight delay, undressing, and restarting the process over and over again.  Thus no flights made it out on Saturday to the South Pole:(  so I am still here at McMurdo.   With all the delays I didn't even get to work in the clinic but I did get lots of rest in between all the delays. 
     With all the "rest" that I got Saturday I was full of energy for Saturday night.    Good thing as that there was alot going on around town.  After a visit to the gerbil gym and dinner I was able to see the new Warren Miller film "Dynasty" Saturday evening.   I thought this year's movie was better than last years but I do miss Warren Miller's narration skills.  In recent years the Greensboro Ski and Outing Club has hosted this event at a local theatre.  Hopefully they will be doing this again this year although I won't make it.  At intermission they usually have door prizes and a raffle.  We also had some door prizes that were donated by various business in Christchurch, New Zealand.  I actually won a Thai dinner in Christchurch-good thing in doesn't expire until December '10.  Would anyone like to join me?:) 
     Following the Warren Miller Film I had been invited to a "carp" party and made it there in time to hear the last 2 bands.   I got there aound 2200 and it was packed.  The guy who had told me about the party had a diet pepsi waiting for me:)  My first one in a couple of weeks.  With the previous rest and the caffine I closed the party down around 0100 and ended up reading til about 0200.  Great party although I personally could of done without seeing the last band's lead singer in a fish-net tank top, although their music was pretty good. Apparently  the carpenter shop throws about 4 parties a season.  They spend the day building a stage to host the bands that have been put together down here on the ice.   I am not sure where they get all the beer from but there were lots of beer can towers being built.  Kersey, our dentist, would smash a beer can and toss it across the room knocking down the towers.  (She reminds me of my sister's friend Pam who was doing the same thing at Octoberfest in Delaware).  Unfortunately I don't have any pictures as that they don't allow cameras into the party. (something to do with the NSF).
     Sunday brunch at 1000 was great.  Lots of fresh fruit, belguin waffles with whiped cream..... It was cold and windy so no hiking but spent the day with my friend "Shuttle Susan" driving around the town and visited the New Zealand Scott base. Otherwise a pretty lazy day.  Sunday night's science lecture revolved around the South Pole transverse.  Instead of flying fuel, cargo, and supplies to the SP there is a "traverse" where 8-10 people take approximately 30 days to drive heavy equipment pulling fuel.... across the Ross ice shelf, "swamp" to the SP.  Apparently saves alot of money.  They stay at the SP for about a week and then come back to Mc Murdo with waste and cargo.  During the travels they stop for lunch and routinely to check the load.  At night they sleep in alittle house that they pull behind them.  I can't imagine taking 25-30 days to drive around 1000 miles across ice pulling stuff.  I would go crazy despite itunes or books on tape.  It is interesting how they find and elimate craveses that could potentially cause problems.   They use a type of sonar ultrasound that leads the pack and when the math/physics states that the ice bridge can't hold their weight they just blow it up and fill it in and keep on going. Pretty cool.  (obviously a very simple explanation).

     Monday and Tuesday were spent waiting for flights while working at the clinic.  After work on Monday the hospital staff had a private tour of Scott Hut.  Scott's Hut was built in 1911 by the British Antarctic Expedition led by Ralph Scott.  In this 50' by 25' hut 25 men lived just prior to setting out for the South Pole.  Unfortunately no one survived.  The hut was later used by Shackleton in 1915.  In 1917 the hut was preserved with allot of artifacts.  Currently a hut has been built around the original hut to preserve the hut.  Before entering the hut you have to listen to the warnings about anthrax and asbestosis that exist in the hut.  Using a flashlight you can see some of the stuff left over from those early days.  As you approach the outside the wind is really blowing on the point, so much so that my glasses frosted over.  Just outside the door is a dead seal from the early 1900's.  Inside the door is a bunch of preserved seal meat and bones with a musty odor that permeates throughout the hut.  As you walk through the hut it is hard to imagine 25 men living in these quarters and in Antarctic conditions.  Not far from the hut is a cross that was erected, however this cross represents the men lost with Shackleton's party.  There is a cross erected in memory of Scott on "obs hill", that overlooks McMurdo.  (As that all my gear has been packed up and inaccessible for the last week I have not been able to hike up there yet.  I might be able to find some shoes in skua.)
Thus it is Tuesday night and I am sitting in the CoffeeHouse with Susan, Mia, Cesear, and Dan updating my blog and waiting for the flights to commence to the South Pole.  Tomorrow night is a lecture by our lead doc, Ken Iserson, about decomposing bodies-a perfect Halloween theme.

Still McMurdo... (a running commentary)

Got some great pictures of the sunset on Saturday, 10/17/09 @ 2230 on the way back from the Coffehouse.   This looks across the Ross ice shelf.  Despite going to bed early I woke up on Sun with my sinuses kicking my but so I took a walk around town with Susan.  It is Susan's first time down although you would think she had been here before with all her knowledge.  She is employed as a shuttle driver and gets to drive some pretty cool vehicles, go to interesting places and meat all sorts of people.  Here she is above with "Ivan the terrible".
Post the walk I napped but still felt miserable.  I did make it to the Sunday night science lecture.  The BBC is down here filming for the 2011 "Frozen Planet" (a takeoff from the "Planet Earth" series).  Great film clips and behind the scenes reporting.  There are science lectures 1-2 times per week.
     Monday I happened to eat lunch with the president of PADI, Drew Richardson, and a bunch of divers.  One is a champion free diver, she can dive 200 ft and hold her breath up to 6.5 minutes with an established heartrate of 12.  Amazing.  They are here testing some regulators and other equipment.  Of course I asked if I could try diving in Antarctica and they just looked at me like I was crazy.  I did sign up to be a "tender" for their dives.  As of today (Thurs) I haven't heard anything yet.

   "Pork chop" and I attended a science lecture Wedesday evening about the snow/ice of Antarctica.  Walking to the lecture in high winds, at -60 degrees was different.    Antarctica has a system that describes severe weather conditions.  So far this past week it has been a "3", meaning visibility clear, no restrictions on driving/hiking....  However on the evening of the lecture the Scott base, and everything just outside of McMurdo was a "1", meaning stay put, no driving, walking/hiking..... until further notice.  But McMurdo remained a "2", which obviously is between 1 and 3. 
     The lecture was very interesting, although alittle dry.  I was sitting in the second row with a guy diagonally behind me to the right in the third row-through out the lecture he provided a running commentary of his approval.  Distracting to say the least.  However the 4th row also had the advantage of not only the audio but the visual affects of this gentleman.
     There is also a movie house here, it is joined to the coffeehouse.   They usually start around 1930 or so.  I tried to sit through Moulin Rouge one night and left because I was falling asleep.  It is strange to walk outside at 2100 and still see the sky brightly lit.
     Thursday and Friday were uneventful.  However the last sunset for the summer Antarctica season took place around 0100  and the last sunrise took place around 0200 Friday.  No I did't get up to watch however I will try to post some pictures later obtain from someone who did.  I like my sleep and am still battling resdiual sinus problems.  Friday, my friend Reinhart arrived, and after seeing his office and talking to his wife Mindy we had dinner.  He went off bar hopping with some friends from last year while I washed clothes and tried to prepare for my flight to the South Pole Saturday morning.
     It it is Saturday morning as I am typing this, our flight has been delayed to later in the morning.  Hopefully the next broadcast will be coming from the South Pole:)

Housing at McMurdo....

    Simply put... it is a freshman dormitory with ages ranging from 18 to 80.  But all acting like they are 20.  And yes there is an 80 year old gentleman here.  I am not sure what his job responsibilities are yet but I am assured he is incredibly healthy.

     I have been placed in Building 155 which is usually designated for transsitional people.  However I was placed in a room with 3 other women that are permanent summer guests.  We have 2 metal bunk beds, 4 metal amioares, 4 metal small something or other that resembles a filing cabinet, 1 desk, 1 chair, 1 refrigerator (dorm size), and 10 inch (maybe) screen tv and 4 peoples stuff.  The room I figure is perfectly square, about 14'x14'.  It has 2 doors on opposite walls.  One door is blocked by the desk and chair.  On the front of the blocked door is a sign that gives directions to the other door.  The "other door" leads into a "suite".  The suite is about 8'x10' and has 3 other rooms connected to it.  The suite contains a couch and matching chair-both badly stained, what looks like some wood supporting cushions making another couch, dresser (empty), coffee table, amiorare (full of stuff including a coconut shell bra).  There is a coat rack that cannot support all the people living in the rooms connected to the suite.  On the coffee table is a vase with fake flowers, a odor eater thing. a register book from people that have visited our suite 240 including some vague sexual exploits of a girl named Chelsea, and beer bottles.  There are Christmas lights all over the place-most work, and artwork remains hung from previous guests.  Up until the "bag and drag" my luggage stayed in the suite because there wasn't any space in our room.
     The three other rooms that ajoin our suited our filled with guys.  I haven't been quite sure who actually lives in them with so many people visiting our suite.  I am scared to look in these rooms to see what they are like.  Morgan, one of the guys-really nice, drinks "pork chops" almost every night.  He expleained that his beer has the equivalent protein of a pork chop.  I did check his beer and it does not have the equivilent amount of protein of a pork chop.  So we now call him "pork chop".  A couple of the guys smoke, and of course I give them a hard time about it.  I have got one of them so jumpy that he hides his cigarette if he sees me coming.  THANK GOODNESS there is no smoking inside and building-even the "bars".  The age range in our suite ranges from the mid 20's to the mid 60's and includes first timers, like me, and seasoned vets.
   Susan is one of my roommates.  I traveled with her from Denver... all the way here.  When we arrived our greeting was not neccessarily one of enthusastic welcome by our new companions.  This is understandable given the size of our room.  I think they have finally accepted us however Susan is hoping to find a better living arrangement and I will be shipping out one day.  One of our roommates is a chef and has traveled extensively at the age of 26.  She is always giving us a heads up to what is good and what isn't.  As well as bringing the good stuff back to the room.  The other is a DA, dining assistant, that is also working reccreation.  We don't see much of her.  All four of us have different hours and makes it very difficult to get any good rest.  I have taken to sleeping with earplugs and an eyemask, despite the fact that we don't have any windows.  I am supposed to have my own room at the South Pole-can't wait to get some good sleep but we will see...

The food at McMurdo...

     Fortunately I am temporarily living in building 155 which also houses the cafeteria at McMurdo.  So I could technically eat my breakfast in my pajamas and not have to dress out in my ECW gear just to go to the cafeteria before work.   All meals are provided with your choice of whole/skim milk, coffee, tea, water (hydrate, Hydrate, and HYDRATE) and various juices.  One thing I have noticed down here is that everything is past the "expiration date"-  I mean in some cases WAY PAST.    One guy was telling us about a candy bar he received as part of  "happy camper" (more on that later) was dated 1995!   At most meals there is a huge bowel full of expired candy bars for the taking.  As that it is way too cold down here to host any bugs, vermin.... most people will keep food in their rooms without any difficulty.  Although I have also heard a story about a shipment of "freshies" a couple of years ago that brought in a bunch of flies and they had a hard time getting rid of them.  "Freshies"  are fresh vegtables, fruits....people seem to go crazy over lettace.  Personally I can't stand lettace but the fresh vegtables and fruit are nice.  Stuff also doesn't seem to go stale here. 
    Meals are provided 4 times a day.  Breakfast, lunch, dinner and around 0000 for those that work the night shift.  I haven't stayed up to midnight yet to check out those offerings Of course breakfast is my favorite-you can't go wrong there.  In addition to your pastries/breads, cereal, hot bar and fruit bar they usually have a fresh egg or waffle grill (sometimes whip cream is available). Lunch always has a sandwich bar where a wrap or sandwich can be made with whatever choices are available.  Always something hot, today was Philly cheese steak, roasted potatoes, green beans.  They usually have a fair to pretty good vegatarian selection, accordding to Mia (who is vegatarian).  Dinner has been everything from chicken/pork to beef products with vegtables.  "Freshies" when available are always included.  Now the good stuff.... deserts:).  today they had tappica pudding, chocolate chip brownies with non-dairy whipped topping and defrosted strawberries.  Their deserts range from jello (usually green) to fancy cakes or pies.  I have learned there are special days, like "cookie day": every Wednesday, "burger day" or "pizza day".  On Sunday mornings they have a "brunch" that starts at 1000 in addition to their usual breakfast that everyone looks forward too.  (Especially since most people have the day off on Sunday and are just getting up from the night before).
     Just to let you know their pancakes are not as good as Tex and Shirley's at Friendly Shopping Center.  Their french toast does not equal Cracker Barrel's.   I miss the pancakes, pocorn, real mashed potatoes, filet/baked potatoes, cheese nachos, and caffine free diet pepsi but am surviving. As picky as I am I have become very familiar with Cherrios, although some Captain Crunch or Alpha bets would be great.   I don't think I have gained any weight as that my clothes still fit.  I have met a couple of people who have already gained 5-7 pounds over the last week.  I do need to get to the gerbil gym more often then maybe I can enjoy an extra desert or second helping of .....

McMurdo

     On the night of the 12th I didn't get much sleep.  I am not sure why.  It could of been that I was washing clothes until at least 2230 and repacking to keep the 2 bags I was allowed under 70 lbs apiece/figuring out my "boomerang bag", or it could of been the darn blue mood light under the bed that I couldn't firgure out how to turn off until about 0300.  As most people know I love the early morning stuff but not without sleep.  At 0515 we were picked up in shuttles to take us back to the CDC.   There we had to put on all our ECW gear, rearrange some of our bags, weigh in, eat breakfast, hear another saftey lecture, and finally depart @ 0830.  This plane was huge, a C-17.  Lots of cargo (including a catipillar)... Most of us were seated along the outer wall of the plane with about 30 of us sitting in rows in the middle of the plane.  Earplugs are definately reccomended.
     Once at cruising altitude we were able to walk around, although there wasn't much to see. We had been provided with a "box" lunch and told to hydrate, Hydrate, and HYDRATE.  I pealed off the lettuce on the ham and cheese sandwich, ate the chips and drank lots of water.  They let people spend 5-10 minutes in the cockpit to check things out-really cool, but certainly not the shuttle.

     Once we were over Antarctica the views out the little window (1 on each side in the rear of the plane), were breathtaking.  Diffuse white with occasional breaks in the ice allowing you to see the ocean.  Unfortunately, there were not any visible whales, seals, or penquins. As we approached the actual continent you were able to see mountains completely covered in white.  Without any perspective it was difficult to estimate hieghts.  We had to re don our ECW gear as that is was getting colder and colder in the plane and in preparation of landing.  Our landing was smoother than the commercial aircrafts but with a much longer runway (ice).  I can't wait to see a plane land on ice-that will be interesting.

Debarking the plane was met with a cold dry breeze.  If I remember corectly the Temp was @ -20 degrees or so.  Taking gloves off to take pictures wasn't too bad but you could definately get the idea how miserable you could be for an extended period of time without your ECW.  We walked from the plane to awaiting shuttles which bumpily transported us to McMurdo Station.  It is not much to look at as it is located on alot of volcanic ash/rock and is very bland/run down appearing.  We were dropped off at Building 155 where we had another saftey meeting and then recieved our room key.  It was fun watching people great each other-friends, family, or a person's relief from the winter.  I was fortunate that Dr. Legaut found me and helped me sort through all the information, get my bags and take them to my room.  There we chatted for awhile.. I don't remember much about the chat as that I was exhausted and just wanted to go to sleep.  However, Susan, Kristan and I went to another safety lecture on hiking outside.  All of us were exhausted.
     The next day I reported to the clinic to begin my training at 0730.  Met alot of people and didn't remember everyone's names at first.  Since beginning my training I have learned alot about positioning and taking X-rays.  the set up at McMurdo is pretty nice.  I am also learning stuff about the paperwork involved....  Soon will start doing labs.  Lots of people have the "crud" as they call it-basically URI/sinus problems.  I have no idea what the equipment is like at the South Pole.
As usual I had superhigh ambitions for Wedsday evening however by 1500, after the South Pole lecture my sinuses caught up with me.  I didn't go to the gym, attend the science lecture/movie, or make the trivia night.  I went to sleep.  I will do a separate entry about the McMurdo clinic.

      Thursday and Friday were much of the same, However after lots of sudafed, saline nasel spray and sleep I began exploring.  Thursday evening a bunch of us caught the first shuttle over to Scott's base, operated by New Zealanders, otherwise known as kiwis.  The kiwi is their national bird.  Their base is not far from McMurdo.  Their base is relatively small compared to the town of McMurdo and only opened to Americans on Thursday evenings.  According to the people that drink their bar is really nice and the beer really cheap.  They have great views of the Ross ice shelf, apparently they get alot of seals in January. Friday I finally hit the "gerbil gym" after work.  This area has several treadmills, ellipticals, bike.....At McMurdo we can take 4 showers a week.  Nice.
     Saturday was another day at the clinic.  currently I am sitting in the "Coffeehouse" where I can hook up to the internet via a telephone line.  Internet access is somewhat difficult to come by as that open computers are hard to get to during reasonable hours.  It is also a lot slower than I am used to.   Also just got word, after the 3rd attempt to the SP was canceled today, there will be 2 attempts on Monday and Tuesday.  I should be set to go to the SP on Tuesday, weather permitting.

New Zealand

     After twenty plus flying hours, who knows how many hour in the airports..... we finally arrived in New Zealand yesterday morning (Sunday, 10/11/09 1300).  At the LA airport ran into Jackyln Smith, you know from Charlie's Angels.  She and her daughter were traveling.  Anyway I didn't get much sleep on any of the flights.  The international flight was awesome.  It was a Quantas 380.  On the seat backs there was an interactive computer that you could play games, watch the news, incredible selection of movies and a sky cam attached to the tail of the plane.  Watching the take-off and landing was pretty cool.
     Everyone received all their luggage and cleared customs without any difficulty.  Apparently they are very strict in New Zealand... if you boots are dirty they can confiscate them, maybe clean them, and potentially fine you up to $600.  The Raytheon shuttles met us and transported everyone to their various hotels.  I stayed at the "So".  It is a couple of blocks from Cathedral Square.  The hotel is pretty "green" and very contemporary.  The rooms are incredibly small without any frills. To activate the power to the room you have to insert your room key into a slot on the wall as you enter the room.   The alarm clock is easy to set up with a gradual increase of light and a "mood" channel that comes up on the tv when it goes off.  The room also has mood lighting that you can choose the color when you turn out the lights.  When you leave the room the power automatically turns off.  Despite not having much sleep, I dumped my bags and hit the town by 1500.  Christchurch is really easy to find your way around.  Lot of stores but they were usually closed after 1500 on Sundays.  I caught up with Dick who joined me for an incredible steak dinner at a restaurant called "Mu".  I turned in early that evening, exhausted.

     This morning the shuttles picked us up  to take us to the CDC to receive our ECW.  (CDC:  not the center for disease control, but the Clothing Distribution Center, ECW:  Extreme Cold Weather gear).  The girls and boys were separated and we had to try on all our stuff to make sure it fit.  Everything is in mens sizes and not very flattening.  Lets hope its functional. The hardest part about all this is trying to figure out your "boomerang bag"/carry on bag.  Your boomerang bag includes stuff that you may need if the plane has to turn back to New Zealand because of weather.  You will be reunited with your luggage again some time in McMurdo. On the flight you are also allowed a "carry on" bag which should include your "boomerang bag" as well as part of your ECW.  You have to put on your ECW before landing.

 After returning back to the hotel to drop stuff off.  Mia, Dick, Eric, and I visited the Botanic Gardens where I took lots of pictures of flowers and green stuff in case I miss it at the pole.  From there Mia, Dick and I took a bus to the gondola which transported us up  to  the rim of a crater.  There was this ride that you could take through a darkened path, like at the carnival.  It was pretty boring and Mia thought the 10 year old host was possessed.  To make things interesting we would hop out of the car and stand in the display to take our pictures.  The top of the gondola provided excellent views of Christchurch, Southern alps and the harbor.  Lots of sheep on the hillsides. We hiked around up top for about 2 hours and then rode down and took the bus back to town.  We found out that evening that only a small portion of us were shipping out in the morning.  I was on the short list and most of the people I had met were spending some extra time here in Christchurch.  Mia and I enjoyed a Thai dinner and now I am washing clothes and trying to resort all my stuff and repack for Antarctica tomorrow.
     Once I settle down somewhere I will download some pictures of everything.

Orientation in Denver: completed

     I arrived in Denver Wednesday late afternoon and transported via shuttle to the hotel.  With me were 3 others, all here for orientation.  Curt and Arnita, to be stationed at the Pole and McMurdo respectively,   have been down to the ice several times.  Curt is a surveyor and Arnita works in the mail room.  Mia and I are newbies and pumped both of them with lots of questions about their jobs and experiences.  Arnita has been really helpful with answering questions that you don't want to ask the official trainers.  At the hotel there was dinner.  thank goodness as that I was starving.  during dinner met several others that provided allot more information.  The people have come from all over.. Alaska, Arizona, New York, Kansas, Colorado...
     Thursday and Friday morning were spent discussing check deposits, security, safety, travel.....  By the way Kathryn, just to confirm what I have already mentioned....I am NOT allowed to have a Chia pet in Antarctica.  Communication via the web i.e.. skype is not allowed, MSN messenger is allowed however probably won't happen given the bandwidth or satellite availability. I have not met anyone with medical and still not sure of specific duties..... Although it was really interesting to hear of the different injuries that have occurred on the ice.  People have fallen from ladders, been run over by equipment, falls.....
Supposedly the most common injury is strains, sprains, and falls.   Not unexpected given you are walking on ice.  We will see what I get this year. ( FYI:  Mindy I am not making a list of injuries that I want to see.)
     Currently I am sitting in the denver airport waiting to fly to LA, then Australia, and then New Zealand.   Hopefully the movie will be something I have not seen.  Maybe there will be popcorn:)  I have not had a caffeine free diet pepsi since last Tuesday:(  Once in New Zealand we will have more orientation and receive our Extreme Cold Weather Gear.  I have spoke with my parents, sister, friends and co-workers and said temporary good byes and suspended my cell phone.  Not much to tie me to the real world now except the internet.

some links you might find interesting....

The following links were provided to me by Mindy Piuk.  In addition to Raytheon being so organized, Mindy and her husband Reinhart have been a huge support and have provided me with lots of info and helpful hints.  Some of you are aware of my sailing adventures in '07.  That was with Mindy and Reinhart.

This is a link for the live web cam at the south pole.  When I figure out where the camera is and how the timing works with the available satillites I will let you know when I am standing in front of the camera. http://www.esrl.noaa.gov/gmd/obop/spo/livecamera.html
North Carolina is 18 hours behind Antarctica.

This is one of my favorite links. http://www.esrl.noaa.gov/gmd/obop/spo/index.html
Feel free to explore the intial website NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) as well as NSF (National Scienc Foundation) that you reach when you click the Amundsen-Scott Station under  "South Pole Life" , then click where it states "here".  You have to check this out.  You will get a cut away view of the Amundson-Scott South Pole Station.  Use your cursor to click on the different parts of the station and a description will pop up.  Really cool.  These websites are great resources to check into some of the studies going on, pictures of everything...

This link gives you lots of info about the "Ice Cube", no not a frozen piece of H2O that you might place in certain beverages.... but rather a type of telescope that looks at neutrinos.  Neutrinos are fascinating.  We  learned a little bit about them in my astronomy classes.  I expect I am going to learn a lot more.  http://icecube.wisc.edu/

Some of my friends have been asking me about how I prepared for all this.  I gotta tell you there is a lot of stuff you have to do even after you have applied and gotten the job.  Lots of paperwork, physicals, labwork....  If you don't "PQ" (physically qualify) then you don't get to go.  Here is a link to the participant quide.  This has been a excellant resource especially in reqards to trying to pack for six months.  http://www.usap.gov/usapgov/travelAndDeployment/contentHandler.cfm?id=541

A whole new vocabulary...
http://www.penguincentral.com/MCMslang.html